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The Achada do Teixeira to Pico Ruivo hike

goframetheworld — Fri, 10 Feb 2023 16:51:57 +0000

The Achada do Teixeira to Pico Ruivo hike is by far one of my favourites in Madeira. It is short, easy and incredibly rewarding. The trail takes you all the way to the highest peak on the island – Pico Ruivo where you get to enjoy a 360-degree view of the surrounding landscapes.

We actually attempted this hike twice. The first time around, the weather was bad, and we ended up turning back just before the final ascent. The second time, we had great conditions as the Achada do Teixeira parking was just above the cloud cover.

A few details about the trail

Hike distance – 2.8 km one way
Incline – about 280 meters
Duration – 2.5 – 3 hours out and back
Difficulty – I’d say moderate as the last 500 meters are a bit steep

A rookie mistake

It would have probably been wise to check the weather before we took off from Funchal. It would have saved us a few hours of driving and hiking in the rain. Regardless, I do not regret making the trip. It was just us on the trail, it wasn’t raining heavily, and we were surrounded by nothing but mist, and the smell of mountain flowers.

When we took off from Funchal, the weather seemed good. Our plan was to reach Pico Ruivo by sunset and hike back in the dark. Upon reaching Santana, however, we noticed that the mountains were covered in thick clouds. Nevertheless, we thought there was still a chance that the peaks would be above the clouds, so we kept going. Eventually, we arrived at the parking lot where the Achada do Teixeria to Pico Ruivo hike starts. It was disappointing. We were still in the clouds, and it was raining heavily. We were also the only car at the parking. That should have been another hint. After we debated for a few minutes while also hoping for the rain to stop, we got out of the car, grabbed our gear, and headed up the path.

The way up to Pico Ruivo

The rain was not as bad anymore, but the wind was getting stronger in the more exposed sections of the trail. While some of us already knew we were not going to get the sunset photos we wanted, I was hopeful that there’d be light at the end of this eerie path.

It wasn’t long until we got to the first shelter where we evaluated how soaking wet our clothes were and briefly discussed how foolish it was of us, two seasoned hikers, to leave our raincoats back at the apartment. Against our better judgement, we kept going.

The path soon cut through the right side of the mountain where we felt sheltered from the wind. I was starting to enjoy the scenery. There was a strong smell of pine and flowers, and the only thing disrupting the silence was the steady patter of the rain and the songs of the local birds. Eventually we reached another shelter with a big wooden table placed in front of it. We thought it would make a lovely place to have lunch and enjoy the view which was currently just fog.

The last section we pushed through before we admitted that there was no point of going further was the windy ridge. In this area there is a forest of dry trees on the slope to the left. With the thick fog, the landscape looked ghostly and, in a creepy way, magical. We got to a small rock wall with stairs leading through it that looked like a gateway into the unknown. It was at this point that we turned around and headed back to our car.

The second try

We were much luckier with the weather the second time around. Once again, we planned to get to Pico Ruivo on time to watch the sunset, and once again as we drove through Santana, we could see the cloud covering the mountain. As we kept driving up the steep road, we were keeping our fingers crossed that we wouldn’t have the same bad luck as this was our last chance to do the famous Achada do Teixeira do Pico Ruivo hike. It was literally the last couple of twists of the road where we emerged from the cloud into a sunny, and crowded parking. We had 2 hours until sunset so without wasting any time, we checked that we had everything packed, including the raincoats we should have brought last time, and began our hike.

The same way up and a different experience

We recognized the path, but not the views. They were stunning. It was like walking on a hill in the middle of a sea of clouds. Probably the closest we will ever get to visiting another planet. We couldn’t help ourselves stopping every few meters to take pictures.

It was not long until the parking lot was out of sight behind us and views to Pico Areeiro came into view. We passed by the shelter with the table in front and we confirmed that it would have indeed made a very scenic lunch spot.

Further up the trail, we passed the third shelter and after that came the dry tree forest area. It was so much different from last time. The white trees lit up by the golden light of the setting sun backdropped by Pico do Arieiro peeking out of the clouds were far from the ghostly sight we saw a few days ago.

A bit further up and we were at the Pico Ruivo shelter. There are 3 other trails crossing at this point that lead to other parts of the island. PR1 – Pico do Areeiro footpath, PR 1.3 – Encumeada which goes along the central mountain range, and PR 1.1 – Ilha trail, which descends towards Ilha.

Up until now the parth had been pretty easy with a very steady incline. But here was where it got a little bit challenging. Thankfully it was just for the last 500 meters that we had to conquer a lot of stairs. But the reward at the top was definitely worth the effort.

Sunset at Pico Ruivo

The views from the top are truly incredible. You get the feeling you are on the top of the world. The viewpoints were quite busy with people who had already marked their viewing spots with tripods, backpacks and jackets. Needless to say, the best spots were already taken. We took the opportunity to walk around and explore different angles, have a snack, fly the drone, and speak to local photographers.

And then we watched the sun set. It was breathtaking. There were a few minutes of silence while everyone just enjoyed the view. Then the silence was broken by the shouts of a group of young people cheering their friends who had just gotten engaged.

Way down we go

People slowly started to leave as it got cold and windy. Some of the photographers stayed hoping for a clear sky to do some astrophotography. Even though we came prepared with layers and layers of clothes, we decided it was too cold to stay any longer and we headed back.

We walked as fast as we could towards the lower parts of the trail which were more sheltered from the wind. As we rushed down, we overtook pretty much everyone else who was at the top and left before we did. Some stayed at the hut below Pico Ruivo, but most were on the path back to the Achada do Teixeira parking. I think it took us less than an hour to get back to our car. Tired, but happy we drove back to Funchal.

Know before you go

A few recommendations:

When to go – Whenever you can! There is rarely any snow in Madeira, but do keep an eye on the weather forecast and the webcams
How long does it take – It took us just over an hour to get to the top and less to get back. Overall it is safe to assume a 3-hour round trip with a few short stops, but you could spend longer at the top
What else can you do in the area – Well, from Pico Ruivo you could hike to Pico Arieiro, however you’d need someone to pick you up from the other side. Encumeada is another alternative for which you’d need to be very well prepared as it is a difficult 11 km long trail
More about hiking awesome locations can be found on our blog

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The Popovo lake hike, Pirin

goframetheworld — Wed, 04 May 2022 11:32:15 +0000

The Popovo lake hike, Pirin

The Popovo lake hike is one of the most rewarding hikes in the Pirin. It is an easy, short hike that takes you through vast alpine landscapes to a gorgeous glacial lake enclosed by picturesque, rocky peaks.

The name of the lake in Bulgarian means “Priest’s lake”. Like most mountain landmarks in the country, there is a legend about how the lake got its name. Two legends actually, both ending with a priest’s hat emerging on the surface thus forming the little island in the middle of the lake. According to one legend, the priest threw himself in the lake because of what Ottoman Turks did to his daughter. I’ve read other versions of this legend where the pope accidentally fell in the lake. He did that while trying to catch up with the Turks who had his daughter and then she threw herself after him. I can’t imagine casually falling in the middle of the lake but what do I know?

The other legend suggests that the priest went there to get rid of Perun – the Slavic god of thunder. This was after Bulgaria was converted to Christianity in the 9^th century. Obviously, that did not go well for the priest as Perun threw him in the lake in his rage.

A few technical details

The Popovo lake (41.709661, 23.507071) is the deepest at 29,5 meters and biggest in the Pirin mountain, and it’s the fourth biggest in the country. The lake itself is at 2233,5 meters altitude and is surrounded by five peaks – Kralev dvor, Dzhengal, Momini dvori, Sivria and Dzhano. There is only a small 181 meters elevation gain along the trail with 2377 meters at the highest point. This point is at about a third of the way and it’s mostly a descent afterwards. The trail is well marked – just follow the green stripe. The most important of all characteristics is the pain score – it actually ranks very well there as an easy, but very rewarding hike.

Getting there

This is a very easily accessible track making it the perfect short day hike. If you’re feeling adventurous you could make this a part of a multi-day hike, or just a stop on the way to other destinations in Pirin. The main point is to get to the Gotse Delchev hut. We chose to drive there which is the easiest way up. It is just about 18 kilometers from one of the famous ski resorts in Bulgaria – Bansko. The road took us through the tourist town of Dobrinishte renowned for its SPA resorts and thermal springs. After a small crossroads stand off where it took a while for us and 2 other cars to figure out who should go first, we were out of the town. From there until the Gotse Delchev hut the road was narrow, but still, it allowed for two cars to pass.

From the hut, there are two options to get to the trailhead. One option is to hike up. Another way is to drive off road via a service road – I don’t recommend this. The easiest, and most popular, way up is simply by taking the lift. That is what we did.

The trailhead

So, after a quiet ride on the lift where we enjoyed the views of the treetops around us we arrived at the Bezbog hut. There we spent a few minutes splashing sunscreen on our faces, shoulders, and any other spot of bare skin we had. Hats on, sunglasses on, a quick drink, a peek at the information displays, and we joined the stream of people heading up the trail.

The path follows the right shore of the Bezbog lake (Безбожко езеро) to its other side where we stopped for a few photos of the hut and lake behind us. The next bit was the hardest part of the track – a short but steep section over some rough terrain without a designated path through it. It was getting quite hot already and at these heights there is no shadow as the trees are all short. At the top of the steep section, we made another rest stop while taking photos of the view behind. Now the hut and lake were below us and the view was even better.

The pleasant hike to Popovo Lake

From then on, the trail took us over a series of short ascents and descents, though the terrain remained mostly flat which allowed us to maintain good speed without making many stops to rest. What was tiring was the heat and the lack of shadow along the way. Eventually, we got to an area with a bunch of mountain pines under which I could crawl to escape the sun for a few minutes and catch my breath.

The hut was no longer in sight. It was replaced by the view of rocky slopes and bare peaks that are typical for the Pirin. Occasionally, there were herds of sheep calmly chewing grass in the meadows.

About an hour into the hike, the trail split with the right path leading up towards the Bezbog and Polezhan peaks. This is the path we took initially but we quickly realized it was the wrong one as we could no longer see the green stripes marking the trail to the Popovo lake. So, we went back and took the other path leading southwest.

The Popovo lake

Another half an hour went by and we were traversing the last kilometre of the track. The peaks surrounding the lake were already in sight and the sun was high in the sky. One last short ascent and the lake came into view just before us. It was a breathtaking sight. A few clouds casting their shadows over the landscape, majestic peaks reflecting in the calm surface of the lake. Groups of people were scattered around resting, having coffee or a sandwich while enjoying the scenery.

We picked a more deserted spot away from the main path on the bank of the lake to rest, grab some food and dip our tired feet in the cold water. I read somewhere that there had been multiple attempts to populate the lake with fish, but they had all been unsuccessful and the lake remained lifeless. That is not what we saw, though. A bunch of small fish were visible in the clear water in the shallows and quite happily devoured the piece of bread that fell off my sandwich. We took the drone up for a while to see the magnificent views from above and got some nice panoramic photos.

The way back

While the view was amazing and it was only noon, it was too hot to stay there as there was no shadow. That meant it was time to head back. Oddly enough, the way back was a bit more difficult as most of the time we seemed to be climbing. Or maybe it was the heat that was making us feel tired. Back at the hut we got a refill of fresh ice-cold water, changed into dry clothes, and hopped on the lift.

At this point I realized I had made a huge mistake – I hadn’t been applying sunscreen on my legs often enough. It wasn’t until we got back home when I found out the extent of the damage. Though my legs were not burnt, I had acquired tan that made it look like I was wearing high socks. And that tan stuck with me for many months after. My friends and family, the good-hearted people they are, found this to be a great joke at my expense. Never again will I be wearing capris in the mountain.

Know before you go

Don’t make the mistake I did – hats and sunscreen are important, Pirin is a bare, rocky mountain and the trails are very exposed
There are plenty of blueberries on the way, so make sure to pick a few for a healthy snack
The main trail can be very crowded. There is an alternative route used by farmers and cattle which can be used instead. Ask around the hut for directions and you might get a nice, private hike.
The hike is suitable for children as it is relatively short and not demanding.
From the lake you could head further to another gorgeous lake – the Tevno lake (Тевното езеро), head for the Pirin hut (хижа Пирин), or head back to the Bezbog hut (хижа Безбог) or the Bezbog summit.
If you’re interested in other great hikes in Bulgaria, have a look at our post about the Bulgarian Mountains.

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Bulgarian Mountains

goframetheworld — Mon, 05 Apr 2021 19:23:38 +0000

Bulgarian Mountains

Bulgaria is not the most popular tourist destination. It’s often misconceived as an underdeveloped country. And I must agree in some ways it is. For example, postal services in this country are some pretty stone-age stuff. Internet speed, on the other hand, puts the country in the top 10 in Europe. A contradicting place this is. When it comes to tourism, there is a contradiction as well. Summer and winter resorts are thriving with their shiny clubs and luxurious hotels. At the same time huts and shelters, as well as trails and facilities in the Bulgarian mountains rarely see that much attention.

And that sort of makes sense as international hikers are not the country’s target tourists. Most huts are not privately owned which means there is not much investment in them either. For many trails information is only available in Bulgarian. Some trails are not marked, so unless your wayfinding skills are outstanding, I recommend finding a guided tour. All of that would put a lot of foreign travellers off and that’s understandable. But we’d like to change that and help make Bulgarian mountains more accessible and well known.

There are many mountains in Bulgaria, but I will only focus on a few of them. I will mention sites and hikes, but the list of gorgeous places is too long for this post. All of these can be done as a multi-day hike. However, keep in mind that not all huts and shelters are in a good condition. This means that if you plan to do this, you should make peace with the idea you will not have a hot shower every day. First world problems. The experience is epic, though.

Rila

The top of the Bulgarian mountains

Rila, with its highest summit – Musala, at 2925 m is the sixth highest mountain in Europe. With around 200 glacial lakes scattered all over it, it is also the most beautiful, in my opinion. But I am a bit biased.

The most famous landmark in the Rila mountain is certainly the Rila Monastery, the largest one in Bulgaria. Founded in the 10^th century, the Monastery has been a cultural heritage and historical site ever since. It’s named after its founder – Ivan of Rila (Иван Рилски or also referred to as Saint John of Rila) who lived in a cave nearby and it was his students who built the complex. The Monastery houses Rafail’s cross in its museum. The monk Rafail used a magnifying glass to carve 104 religious scenes and 650 miniature figures into the cross. When he completed the piece in about 12 years, the monk lost his sight.

The most well-known hiking destination in Rila are the Seven Rila lakes (Седемте рилски езера). They are situated one above the other and are connected via small streams. There is a lift that goes almost all the way up. Vehicles take visitors up via service roads illegally as well. All that makes the trail extremely crowded. Sadly, Bulgaria is not good at protecting its environment so there is no regulation of that traffic. Soon this beautiful landscape will be destroyed by tourism and lack of maintenance.

A trail for every hiker’s experience level

Other than the above-mentioned attractions, there are many beautiful places in the Rila mountain that are worth visiting. Many hikes are not well-known to foreign tourists. That makes these trails perfect for people like me who enjoy the serenity and silence of nature as they lack the noisy people hustling and standing in the way of the gorgeous views.

For those who appreciate a pleasant hike to a picturesque location, I recommend visiting the Skakavitsa (Скакавица) waterfall. It’s the highest waterfall in this mountain surrounded by the endemic Macedonian pine forests. In spring when the snow is melting, and the rivers are at their fullest, the water falling down from 70 meters creates a nearly deafening rumble.

Another great hike is the Scary Lake (Страшното езеро) – a gorgeous lake reflecting the surrounding mountains in its clear waters. It got its name due to the amplified sounds of thunder during thunderstorms which are quite frequent in the area. It is also referred to as the Amphitheater of thunder.

If your starting point is the Rila Monastery, then you could hike to the fish lakes (Рибните езера) and the smelly lake (Смрадливото езеро), or the dry lake (Сухото езеро). For an off the beaten path experience you could head to the spectacular Urdini lakes (Урдини езера).

If you’re up for a challenge, you could hike to the top of the Balkans – mount Musala (връх Мусала). It is actually not the most difficult peak to climb in Bulgaria despite being the highest. Another challenging and beautiful trail is the one to mount Maliovitsa (връх Мальовица) with its steep slopes and glacial lakes along the way.

Pirin

The rocky mountain

Another fine representative of the Bulgarian mountains is Pirin. There are different hypotheses for where its name came from, one of them being that the mountain is named after the Slavic god of thunder – Perun. Another one is that the name is derived from the Thracian word for “rocky mountain”. And it is a suitable name as most of the tracks are harsh with small edelweiss flowers peeking through the rocks. It is renowned for its mineral springs and the small town of Bansko that turned into a famous ski resort.

Easy walks and advanced hikes

There are many gorgeous places to choose from when visiting Pirin. You could pick from easy walks that will take you through small villages to gorgeous waterfalls and crystal-clear lakes. A few such examples are the Popinolashki waterfall (Попинолъшки водопад), Popovo lake (Попово езеро) and the Tevno lake (Тевно езеро).

The hike to Popovo lake is short and pleasant, and the lake itself with the surrounding mountains makes up a postcard-like landscape.

The Tevno lake is a bit more difficult to get to but it is one of the most majestic sites in Pirin. Its name means “dark lake” and there is a legend for how it got the name. It’s about the price of granting wishes. According to the legend, the lake was glowing silky blue in the morning and golden in the evening. A girl who visited often once wished to have eyes as blue as the lake in the morning and golden hair as the lake’s colour in the evening. The lake granted her wishes, but she never thanked it for the gifts. Instead, she grew greedy and kept asking for more. Eventually, she made the lake so angry it became dark as it is today.

There are many hiking trails that cross the Tevno lake, and a good one to take is towards mount Kamenitsa (връх Каменица). The views from up there are breathtaking.

For a more challenging experience, you could head out to one of the picturesque peaks such as Todorka (Тодорка), Muratov (Муратов връх) or Bezbog (Безбог). The track to mount Muratov crosses the picturesque Muratovo lake (Муратово езеро) which is a beautiful spot to hike to even if you don’t go all the way to the peak.

If you’re not afraid of heights, you could take the adrenaline route to Koncheto (Кончето). The name translates to “the horse” because before the safety metal rope was placed, hikers would mount the ridge as if they were riding a horse to get across.

Stara Planina

The old Balkan

Stara Planina, meaning Old mountain and also known as the Balkan mountain range, spans across the whole country from the west to Cape Emine in the east. The mountain displays a broad range of landscapes that change with the altitude. Temperatures fall as elevation increases and that causes the ecosystem to stratify. Oak forests dominate the lower parts with beech forests higher up. Above that, there is a level of spruce, pine, and fir trees. Trees get shorter and shorter the more you ascend, and fields and bushes occupy the highest parts.

What about the hikes?

The long-distance trail from mount Kom (връх Ком) in the west near the Serbian border to cape Emine (нос Емине) is part of the E3 European long-distance path. The Kom-Emine trail takes up to 25 days to traverse and it crosses the main ridge of the mountain.

It’s a long hike, so plan camping or spending the night at the Ray hut (х. Рай) beneath the beautiful 124.5 meters tall waterfall called Raiskoto Praskalo (Райското пръскало). I have no clue how to translate this without making it sound ridiculous.

Hiking up mount Botev (връх Ботев) is another good option for spending a day in the Old Balkan. It is the highest peak in the mountain at 2376 meters.

Another hiking gem is the Goat’s Wall peak (връх Козя стена – read as Kozya Stena). It is only 1670 meters high but the view from its 100-meter vertical northern wall will leave you breathless.

For those who are looking for easier walks there is the Prohodna cave (пещера Проходна) – one of the most famous geological phenomena in Bulgaria. The Iskar – Panega (Искър-Панега) geopark is located not far from the cave – about 15 minutes by car. There you can have a stroll along the turquoise waters of the Zlatna Panega river (р. Златна Панега) or relax on a bench enjoying the landscapes.

One more treat of the Balkan’s nature are the Krushuna waterfalls (Крушунските водопади) – the biggest travertine cascade in the country. Walk along the terraces of clear blue waters up to its spring hidden in a cave, and stroll into the Devetashka cave before heading back.

Rhodope

The green archeological wonder

The Rhodope mountain is the largest Bulgarian mountain taking up one-seventh of the country’s area. Unlike its rocky neighbours, the Rhodopes are a very green place. It is known for its karst areas, caves, and river gorges. Its first known inhabitants were the Thracians who built fortresses and cities some of which left ruins that can still be seen today.

So much history to see

The Rhodope mountain is a magical place full of green fields and thick forests, beautiful rock formations and noisy rivers. But apart from its natural beauty, it holds a great number of historic sites. There is something for everyone’s taste. Those who fancy a road trip could take a ride among the canyon that is the Trigrad gorge (Триградско ждрело) dug by the Trigrad river which spills into the Devil’s Throat cave (пещера Дяволското гърло). Those interested in history can visit some of the many archaeological sites and medieval fortresses. Some examples are the ruins of the ancient Thracian city of Perperikon, the ancient sanctuary near Tatul, the Mezek tomb and the Belintash sanctuary. There are many small villages of traditional Bulgarian architecture, namely Leshten, Shiroka Laka, Dolen and Kovachevitsa that are well worth a visit.

Since I mentioned traditional villages, there are also a few abandoned ones if you fancy the creepiness of a ghost village. One of those is Chalma and it is the one located highest in Bulgaria – 1650 meters. Another ghost village worth checking out as it is especially beautiful is Zherka. It’s been abandoned since 1978, and no one really knows why.

Many castles were built in the Rhodopes mainly to protect trading routes. Examples that are still standing to some extent are the Asenova fortress, Ustra, Lyutitsa, Tsepina and Mezek.

Since I talked about the Rila Monastery, I have to mention that the second biggest monastery in the country is in the Rhodope mountain – the Bachkovo Monastery.

And so many beautiful landscapes

Still, none of these things beat the Rhodopes nature. You could set out to see the fascinating rock formations called the Wonderful bridges (Чудните мостове). Or head to the mysterious Thracian legacy called Orlovi Skali (Орлови скали – roughly translates to Eagle Rocks). These are volcanic rocks with about 100 holes that nobody knows for sure what were used for. Alternatively, you could head into one of the many caves in the area. I recommend The Devil’s Throat, Yagodinska cave, Uhlovitsa, and Snezhanka, but there are others as well.

As for the hikers – there are many unmarked trails in the mountain. It is not hard to get lost, so it is not recommended to head there alone. The highest peak is called Goliam Perelik (2191 meters). It is a military zone, but you could still get close enough. Choose to hike to the canyon of waterfalls (Каньона на водопадите), the Devil’s bridge (Дяволския мост) and the Borino waterfall or the Sini Vir waterfall (Сини вир). Most of the hikes are relatively easy and there are many trails suitable for inexperienced hikers.

A few last words

Bulgaria is not the most popular hiking destination, but it has a lot to offer. Its mountains are among the prettiest, its history – among the richest. This beauty, however, is under threat from industrial development and private interests. The only way we can try to preserve it is to raise awareness, to give these places the popularity they deserve.

I hope that you can find the time to visit. I can guarantee you will fall in love with the landscapes, the traditions, and if you’re lucky – the sound of Bulgarian bagpipes echoing in the mountains.

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Rainbow Warrior – diving in New Zealand’s history

goframetheworld — Mon, 15 Mar 2021 15:59:01 +0000

Diving the Rainbow Warrior

One of the best experiences I had in New Zealand was without a doubt diving the Rainbow Warrior. It’s a tiny piece of New Zealand history – now a slowly degrading artificial reef.

A bit about the Rainbow Warrior wreck

The Rainbow Warrior’s name comes from the book “Warriors of the rainbow”. More specifically a passage that reads “When the world is sick and dying, the people will rise up like Warriors of the Rainbow…”. It was a Greenpeace flagship that got sunk by French saboteurs in 1985 in Auckland harbour. At the time it was being prepared for departure to protest France’s nuclear testing on the Mururoa Atoll. The ship was later re-floated, but it was beyond repair, so in December 1987 it was re-sunk at Motutapere Island.

The French secret service agents attached two packets of explosives to the hull. One near the propeller, and another one to the outer wall of the engine room.

The wreck itself is quite small – only 40 meters. It is also located at a relatively shallow location – about 26 meters to the seabed. This makes it possible to explore the whole wreck and even make more than one circuit in one dive.

A bit of science

Shipwrecks all around the world serve as artificial reefs, and the Rainbow Warrior is no different. It is a little temporary oasis on the sandy bottom which provides shelter and substrate. Over the years since it sunk, it has become an ever-changing ecosystem. It’s constantly evolving to take new shapes and colours and attract new life forms while old ones no longer occupy the wreck.

The Rainbow Warrior was made of aluminium bolted together on steel ribs. Underwater, though, they served as an anode and a cathode with an electrical current running in between. The anode, in this case, the aluminium, attracted the most corrosive negative ions in the water causing it to rust while the steel remained intact. Once the aluminium was gone, the steel started rusting rapidly as well.

A bit about marine life

At first, the wreck got covered in barnacles. They were later replaced by moss animals who eventually disappeared to make room for the plants, anemones and sponges that can be seen today.

It is now covered with pink and blue anemones and there is plenty of marine life passing around such as the New Zealand demoiselle and blue maomao. The darker parts of the wreck attract nocturnal fish in search of a place to sleep such as bigeyes and slender roughies. Leatherjackets and snapper feed on the plants and animals attached to the ship. The occasional crayfish, eel, scorpionfish and john dory can also be seen lurking around.

Because of the way the ship lays on the seabed its port side is more exposed to light. This makes the two sides of the ship completely different. Its sunlit side covered in seaweed, whereas the shaded side lacks plants and is mainly occupied by filter feeders.

Overall, at the time of writing this, the Rainbow Warrior is quite a spectacular little wreck. While it falls apart, marine life will keep changing with it. In a matter of years, it will inevitably become a pile of rusty plates that will eventually be washed away leaving a plain sandy bottom once more.

Bay of Islands

Bay of Islands is a region in the northeast containing 144 islands – truly a place of stunning beauty. As we drove in the boutique town of Paihia the sun was already setting behind us. The dying light hitting the small islands close by added a honey glow to the gorgeous view. This was going to be the last stop in our trip to New Zealand where we were going to stay for three nights before we had to fly back to the real world.

There’s a great number of activities to choose from for a holiday in the area. There’s sailing, diving, snorkelling, cruising, sightseeing, and many more. Sadly, we were not going to spend enough time there to have a taste of any of these. Except for a bit of diving. If we were ever to return to this enchanting land, we’d spend more time exploring. But for now, we had to settle for a plentiful dinner in town and a good night’s rest.

We made our way inside our accommodation in Paihia – a gorgeous campervan park with a few apartments situated at the edge of town. The apartments were separated from each other by thick trees and bushes. This provided the sense of privacy we greatly appreciated.

After dragging our suitcases inside and taking most of our stuff out once more, we headed into town for dinner. The atmosphere in Paihia was lively and most restaurants were full. We were very tired, and we only wanted to grab something light. So, obviously, we ended up in a steak house devouring massive rib eyes, a bucket full of fries along with a couple of beers. And now it was time for a well-deserved rest.

Our dive day

The day started early for us as we headed down to the dive centre. I was a bit anxious about the dive as most of my dives so far were up to 18 meters, but it was also going to be my first wreck and that was exciting. While we sat there reading textbooks to get ready for our adventure dive, our gear was being loaded in a trailer.

It took about forty minutes, as far as I remember, to get to the beach from where we were going to launch the boat. After a briefing, we put on our gear and headed to the water. Launching the boat from the shore in front of the eyes of a bunch of confused witnesses casually sunbathing was good fun. A short boat ride took us right over our destination – the Rainbow Warrior wreck. We got split into small groups and had another briefing to get to know the dive plan. And way down we went.

The descent

The visibility was worse than what I’d hoped for and we were using the anchor’s rope to descend. Once we reached the bottom, all my anxiety suddenly vanished. We kneeled on the bottom beside the wreckage of what was once a vessel part of anti-whaling, anti-nuclear waste, and anti-seal hunting campaigns. A few exercises and we were off to explore the sunken ship.

If I have to describe it with one word, it would be “creepy”. But creepy in a good way. Starting from the stern we swam past one of the holes in the hull and we could see a bit of what’s inside using our torches. We could tell there was a shoal of fish bubbling inside. Shining our torches towards the ship’s body revealed an entire palette of beautiful colours on the surface covered in anemones.

Around the ship and ascending back

As we swam towards the front of the ship, we observed the ship’s silhouette changing colours under the lights of the torches. At the front, we made a short stop to get a few photos of the picturesque bowsprit that was covered in plants and animals disallowing the rust to take over.

We ascended a few meters to the upper deck for a swim back, this time atop of the ship. The sunlit upper deck, unlike the sponges and anemones dominated hull, was covered in thick kelp.

Shortly after we were heading back up to the surface.

On our way up, we passed a section of the upper deck that had already collapsed and we could see the inside of the ship in between the overgrown decking.

Lunch on the beach of one of the Cavalli Islands

We took off our gear in the water and got pulled up back on board the boat. After I recovered from my “graceful” landing on the deck, it was time to head to a tiny island nearby to grab some lunch. We sat on a small beach on the deserted piece of land eating our homemade sandwiches and sharing stories of our travels. With a cup of hot coffee, we sat around for a while to rest and enjoy the sound of the waves. I even got to collect a few shells to add to my collection of natural souvenirs from around the world.

As pleasant as that was, we still had another dive in front of us and we were more than happy to get going.

The second dive

Our second dive was at a nearby reef. The name of the dive site is “Figure of eight”. On the surface, it looks like two adjacent rocks sticking out of the water. An experienced diver could swim around both rocks with one tank which is what gave it its name.

For us, it was a swim around one of those rocks covered in plants and animals, and over a field of kelp. If you stick your head under the kelp, you’d find plenty of small fish lurking underneath. Lots of caves and arches in the area as well for the more advanced divers.

We saw plenty of small fish around the reef and even smaller hiding in the kelp. On the way back we were lucky enough to get a glimpse of a couple of rays swimming by.

After ascending and me trying to get back on board more elegantly this time around, but failing, it was time to head ashore.

The bottom line

At first, I had mixed feelings about this dive. This was because it was my first deep dive and that made me a bit nervous. It ended up being one of my favourite dives so far. And not because it was better in terms of marine life or visibility, but because it was different, relaxed, and simply unforgettable.

A special thanks to the guys from Paihia Dive for this amazing adventure.

If you’re looking for other dive sites in New Zealand, have a look at our post about the Poor Knights.

The post Rainbow Warrior – diving in New Zealand’s history appeared first on Travel | Photography | Blog | Go Frame The World.

Kayaking around Whale Island

goframetheworld — Wed, 20 Jan 2021 22:25:25 +0000

Kayaking around Whale Island

Whakatāne, New Zealand

Whakatāne is a little gem in New Zealand that offers a surprising number of activities and sights. Back when we were doing our research, the only reason why we planned to stop by was to visit White Island. There is much more to Whakatāne than that – coastal walks, diving, snorkeling, scenic trips, culture and heritage attractions are all great alternatives. The one adventure that definitely got our “SEAL” of approval was kayaking around Whale Island – a wildlife sanctuary, home of a fur seal colony and many native birds.

How we ended up kayaking in Whakatāne

Our trip to New Zealand was one I had been looking forward to for a very long time. I had planned the trip months in advance and kept adding more stuff to do in our already very full itinerary. It took a very long time to assemble and arrange all activities in just two weeks. I planned for failure as much as I could as well, leaving space for bad weather, car troubles and other things that could go wrong. We noted down Plan B’s in the itinerary and chose alternative activities. Sadly, there is only so much you can plan for.

Whakatāne was on day 5 of our road trip schedule. The idea was to take a tour to White Island – an active volcano some 48 kilometers off the East Coast of New Zealand’s North Island. The tour would have taken us on a catamaran to the island where we’d have walked around inside the crater. That sounded like a really exciting adventure. Little that I knew, planning in advance would stab me in the back like I never imagined. On 9th December 2019, less than two months before our trip, a large eruption occurred at White Island followed by a second eruption shortly after. It was a tragic event as there were 47 people on the island at the time.

Following these events, all tours to White Island were cancelled. We had a few alternatives in the area, or we could still rearrange our schedule a bit and spend more time in Rotorua instead. After digging a bit, I found out that there are plenty of other things Whakatāne has to offer. One of them was kayaking around Whale island – a small uninhabited island 9 kilometers away from the town which was home to a colony of fur seals… I did not read beyond “fur seals” – that was all it took to win me over.

Arriving in Whakatāne

We arrived late in the afternoon, tired from that day’s road trip. The town was very quiet, and most of the shops were already closed. I was expecting this area to be busy, but it seemed like all the tourists had already left. Not that I mind a little peace and quiet.

With my feet sore from all the walking and hiking, I was looking forward to a day where my arms would be doing most the work for a change.

We got some takeaway and grabbed some fruit and refreshments from a supermarket – probably the only one that was open. After a relaxed dinner on our porch, it was time for some well-deserved sleep.

The trip to Whale Island

Early the next morning, it was once again time to pack the suitcases and check out of the hotel. The air was cool, but the sky was clear and there was just a bit of breeze that moved the air. We were lucky to have a good weather and enough people signing up for the trip for it to even happen.

We drove to the marina where the crew were already loading the kayaks on a catamaran. After brief introductions, we tried on some gear, went through a bio check and headed to the boat. Shortly after we took off around the lady on the rock and towards Whale Island. The lady on the rock is a bronze statue known as the symbol of the Whakatāne region.

The ocean was calm, and we enjoyed the smooth sail towards the island looking like a giant green whale. Our guide Helen was telling us about the region and the history of the island while we were looking out for dolphins on the way. With our approach, Whale Island was getting bigger and bigger, and we could now make out its trees, and rocks. White Island was also visible on the hazy horizon with its smoking crater.

Time to get into the kayaks

As the boat anchored on the right side of the island, we were already in our gear, and ready to jump in the kayaks. Once everyone was in the water, we followed our guide along the coast further to the right. There we saw a few fur seals with their little ones relaxing on the rocks. A few of them jumped in the water and swam closer, while others just observed us from a distance without any interest.

We continued rowing towards the edge of the island where we could feel the current getting stronger. As we got around, we saw a completely different face of the island. It was no longer the calm, thick forest before us, but rough vertical cliffs and rocks carved in odd shapes by the incoming waves.

Sulphur Bay

The group turned around to kayak along the front of the island as it was not exposed to the strong currents. We headed towards our next stop – Sulphur Bay. We took our time as we wanted to enjoy the beautiful scenery around us. It was quiet and calm – we could only hear the birds which Helen kindly identified for us along the way. Whale island is a nature reserve and a sanctuary for endangered birds. It is a pest free environment where birds can thrive.

Once we reached Sulphur Bay, we got out of the water and pulled our kayaks out on the beach. There we were able to observe the geothermal activity of the island. Hot water was raising through the sand in the shallows. We could see little bubbles making their way to the surface. We buried our feet in the hot sand for a while and then went on a short tour of the surrounding area.

On the way back we stumbled upon some kiwi footprints. Turns out kiwis are bigger than I thought!

The dogs of the sea

After the pleasant break, we hopped back into the kayaks and headed out to see the rest of the island’s coast. On the way there were plenty of native birds and plants to see. Our guide was explaining the history of the island, the landmarks that were of importance or considered sacred by the Maori.

As we reached the end of the sheltered side of the island and we were about to head back, we noticed a small cave. In front of the cave, there were a few fur seals relaxing on the rocks. We approached a bit to take a few pictures while maintaining a safe distance so that we don’t startle them. The seals, however, decided they were interested in us, so they jumped in the water and came to see us up close. They were playing very close to our kayaks, so we managed to snap some good footage. They got curious about us once they realized we were not a threat and started jumping out of the water and swimming in circles very close to us.

Best. Day. Ever!

The way back

We spent quite some time around the seals, but it was time to return to the boat. The playful animals followed us for a while and then disappeared. We got the kayaks back on board after which some of us got in the water for a refreshing swim.

Our skipper then set sails for Whakatāne, even though there wasn’t much wind to go with. With a cup of hot coffee and some of Helen’s homemade brownies, we sat in the front to work a bit on our tan. It was a very smooth and relaxing journey back.

Once we were back at the marina, we got in our car and set off towards our next adventure.

The takeaway

This was a day well spent. I highly recommend KGKayaks for this trip. I want to add a special thanks to our guide Helen and our skipper Barry for the pleasant and educational experience.

If you enjoyed this post and if you are looking for ideas for your New Zealand holiday, diving the Poor Knights is another adventure in New Zealand we highly recommend.

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The best day hikes in New Zealand

goframetheworld — Thu, 29 Oct 2020 18:04:54 +0000

The best day hikes in New Zealand

New Zealand is probably one of my favourite places on this planet. I love how well organized it is there, how nice people are, the wine, and, obviously, the magnificent landscapes. One of the best ways to enjoy these landscapes is hiking. There are so many amazing tracks to choose from depending on where in New Zealand you are, your fitness level, time of the year, and duration of the hike. When you are a first-time visitor traveling from far away, and only have a week or two to visit, however, the choices are limited. You must pick very carefully what you will be visiting and prioritize so it all fits nicely in your schedule. After all, there are so many amazing hikes in New Zealand, you’d need years to cover all of them.

So how do you choose?

I’ve certainly found it a bit of a challenge because I always want to go everywhere. And because of that, we have more than once found ourselves in a hurry, and exhausted, unable to spare time for anything that we hadn’t planned for.

In this post I’ve listed my top five day hikes in New Zealand. There are many articles which will describe some, if not all of these hikes as the ultimate best must visit hikes in New Zealand. And there are good reasons for this. So not to reiterate what plenty of other websites agree on, I’ll focus on what’s good and what’s bad about each route. Hopefully, this will help you decide which are the best hikes for you.

The Pain Chart

In order to choose, there are many factors to consider and compare against. To illustrate this, I’ve created “The Pain Chart”.

What is that, you ask? It is a representation of the ratio between a hike’s general difficulty and its benefits. “Pain” describes how long a hike takes, how difficult it is, how rough is the terrain, and how much my feet hurt at the end of the hike. “Gain” relates to how good the views are along the way, points of interest, amenities, and overall satisfaction once you get to a bench at the end of the hike. The best value for effort hikes, so to speak, then end up in the lower right quadrant where the gain is high, and the pain is low. The top right quadrant contains the toughest but also really wonderful tracks.

So, here’s the list of the top 5 hikes in New Zealand in order of difficulty. Of course, this is all a product of our subjective opinion. Your experience could be different, but hopefully this will help you in your research.

#1 Cathedral Cove

The hike to Cathedral Cove is really more of a a relaxed walk. Depending on where you start the hike and whether you take diversions or not it can take about an hour or a bit more. We started our hike from the Hahei Beach car park which adds another 20-30 minutes to that hour. The path is marked from there, and there are plenty of signs along the way. If you take this route, it’s a short walk along the beach, followed by a somewhat steep climb through a forest. The path then joins the main track that starts from the top car park at Grange road. You can’t park there though – it is a pickup and drop off zone. The road from there on is generally flat, wide, and paved.

There are other ways to visit Cathedral Cove besides walking, such as water taxis and kayaks.

The best time to visit is at low tide, otherwise the cave could be flooded. Best time to take pictures is between high and low tide when there is little water in the cave.

There are no restaurants near the beach, so if you plan on spending a long time there, make sure you brought enough food and beverages with you.

Keep in mind that this is a very touristy spot, and the beach can get crowded.

If you need a place to stay in Hahei, I highly recommend Hahei bed and breakfast. It’s gorgeous, sparkling clean, and the hosts are wonderful.

The Pros:

Very easy hike.
Gorgeous beach.

The Cons:

Could get very crowded during the day.

#2 Ben Lomond

Ben Lomond is a great hike because it is relatively easy if you take the Gondola for the first steep part and the views are very rewarding. The trail starts off through a pine forest. Once out of the forest, you’ll have amazing views of the Wakatipu lake and the mountains surrounding Queenstown behind you. Once you get to the saddle, you will have this view on your left, and on your right a gorgeous scenery of mountains will open up. If you’re interested in learning more about the trail, here is a post about our experience with it.

The Pros:

Can be an easy hike.
Amazing views.
Not too crowded.

The Cons:

Nothing really. I guess the only thing to consider is that the last part of the trail is very exposed, and can get quite cold and windy.

#3 Tongariro Crossing

The Tongariro Crossing is one of the most famous hikes in New Zealand. It takes you through a volcanic landscape among craters and lakes painted by sulfur compounds. This is a wonderful trail, and I highly recommend it. The terrain is rather rough and difficult at times, but it is worth the effort. One part of the trail takes you between Mt Tongariro and Mt Ngauruhoe, aka Mount Doom. There are many points of interest along the way, and if you’d like to know more, you can read about it here.

The Pros:

Mount Doom.
Plenty of beautiful spots along the track.

The Cons:

Gets very crowded.
Requires you to arrange transport to the beginning and from the end of the trail.

#4 The Pouakai Crossing

This is another famous trail. There is one particular spot that this hike is best known for – the Pouakai Tarns. The small lake where the gorgeous Mount Taranaki is reflected on the surface. On a clear day this is a breathtaking image. Not our luck, though as it was covered in clouds, but regardless, the views along the track are amazing. One thing I found most inconvenient, and why I gave it a pain score of 8, is that most of the track consists of a horrendous number of stairs. That can be very tough on the knees, I certainly was not prepared.

The Pros:

Much, much beauty all along.

The Cons:

Stairs.
Transport must be arranged.

#5 Roy’s Peak

By far the most famous of them all is Roy’s Peak near Wanaka. The lookout over lake Wanaka and the surrounding mountains where you can take a Leonardo DiCaprio on Titanic style photo attracts tourists from all over the world. While the view from the top is extremely rewarding, this also ranks highest on the pain chart. The reason being there is a constant incline to get there. And it is steep. Another reason for the score is that when I say this one is famous, I mean it. The track gets extremely busy. People start hiking very early. Like 3 am early. There are queues for pictures at the lookout as well. If you’d like to know more about the hike, you can do so here.

The Pros:

Incredible views along the way.
Wide and well-defined track.

The Cons:

Tough ascent.
Tough descent.
Very busy track.
Queues at the lookout.
Parking gets full very quickly.

The takeaway

Whichever trail you take, you will not regret it. New Zealand is an exciting place and every piece of it is worthy of admiration. Even if you don’t manage to see everything you want to, you will certainly promise yourself to come back. I hope you manage to keep that promise. I know I will.

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The Ben Lomond Hike

goframetheworld — Sat, 03 Oct 2020 15:38:09 +0000

The Ben Lomond hike

When in Queenstown, the Ben Lomond hike is a “must do”. Ben Lomond is known as one of the most beautiful tramps in New Zealand. I like that it is not very difficult, and it’s short. If you take an easy route, that is.

Queenstown

I couldn’t write about this hike without adding a few words about Queenstown. Even though we only spent one day there we immediately fell in love with the place. It’s small, but offers plenty of places to see, all sorts of entertainment, and great restaurants to dine in. It’s lively, but not crowded – a good balance for people like me who really like their personal space. Last, but not least, it is gorgeous! Tucked among picturesque mountains along the shores of the 80-kilometer-long lake Wakatipu, Queenstown is a hub for adventure during all seasons.

About the hike

There are two ways to get to the top – the easy path and the longer, more strenuous path.

The easy way is to take the Gondola saving you about a 450-meter elevation through a forest. From there, the rest of the hike takes about a couple of hours.

The longer, more strenuous path starts from Queenstown – either next to the Gondola base station or near Lomond Crescent. There are other points to start the hike from as well, but some seemed a bit tricky to find. There is more information and a map here. Whichever starting point you choose, there is a long, steep way to go before your path joins the trail from the top of the Gondola just after you exit the forest.

The track was almost deserted. We only met a couple of small groups of hikers heading up and down along the way. This made it a really nice hike compared to all the other crowded trails we walked.

The Gondola

As you can imagine, we picked the easy way. Not only because our feet were quite sore from the last few days, but also the weather was bad. It had been raining all night and, sadly, Ben Lomond was all covered in clouds. Regardless, we were equipped with windproof and waterproof jackets and trousers, and a solid determination to get at least to where the cloud cover started. So, we packed our bags, wrapped our blistered toes in bandages, checked out of our hotel, and headed to the Gondola.

As it is a famous attraction, I was expecting a long queue. Luckily, there was none, probably due to the weather.

It was a short ride to the top where the gorgeous view over Queenstown opened up. After taking a few pictures from the observation deck, we headed up the track in hopes to get to the top ahead of the rain.

To the saddle

After a short stroll through a pine forest the trees ended, and the beautiful scenery popped up. The lake and the mountains surrounding it were behind us now and we made frequent stops to turn around and enjoy the view. Ben Lomond was ahead of us all covered in thick clouds and it wasn’t looking like this would change. Other than the few other hikers on the way, we met plenty of goats casually nibbling the grass.

The trail to the saddle is a constant, gradual incline. It is not very steep so it’s easy to enjoy and there’s no need to make a lot of stops. We did, however, make plenty of stops as our feet and legs were in a bad shape.

To the clouds

Shortly before the saddle, we made a short break to assess the weather conditions and our own strength. Ben Lomond was still hidden among clouds and we knew we were not going to get to see anything from the top. Worse than that was that my buddy’s knees were hurting quite a bit. So, I did what any good travel companion would do under the circumstances. I ditched him, left my backpack, and headed towards the saddle as fast as I could.

I am glad I did that because once I got to the saddle, the breathtaking view of the mountains on the other side appeared in front of me. There’s a nice bench facing that way, though, sadly, I had no time to sit and enjoy the view.

The saddle is the steepest part of the hike. Without my backpack it was quite easy to traverse it, though, so at times I was literally running uphill. I met a couple of hikers going up and I asked them to take a few pictures of me. Let’s just say that these pictures turned out to look the way you’d expect when you ask a random stranger to take them – quite bad.

Once I got to the cloudy area, there was no point to continue – there was no view whatsoever. All I could see was thick gray mist.

The way down

At this point it was time to head back to my nearly frozen and wet buddy. So, I ran back doing my best not to trip and fall. By the time I got to him, it had stopped raining so we could now take as many pictures as we wanted and make detours for better angles.

Getting back to the Gondola took us less than half the time we needed to go up. We changed into dry clothes and took the relaxing ride back to Queenstown. It was time to move on to our next adventure.

Final note

The Ben Lomond hike is one I would definitely like to repeat, hopefully when the weather is better. If you enjoyed this article or if you are looking for inspiration to visit New Zealand, have a look at some of our other posts here.

The post The Ben Lomond Hike appeared first on Travel | Photography | Blog | Go Frame The World.

The Trolltunga Hike

goframetheworld — Mon, 06 Jul 2020 17:55:43 +0000

The Trolltunga Hike

The Trolltunga hike is one of the most famous hikes in Norway. People from all around gear up and take on this 8 to 12-hour hike to see “the troll’s tongue” and the valley far below. While it is incredibly busy and quite long, the Trolltunga hike is definitely worth it.

Preparing for the Trolltunga hike

The Trolltunga hike was on our list of must do’s even though it was very difficult to fit into our weekend trip. In order to get to Odda where we spent the night before the hike, we had a 13-hour drive from Åndalsnes. Needless to say, we were extremely tired. We had done our research. So, we knew there was a small parking higher from the start of the trail. This lets you skip a dreadful steep climb with chains and stairs. We couldn’t book a spot though. We were planning to do that a few days before, but we were not sure the weather would be good enough, so we decided to wait. Our alternative was to get a shuttle from the P2 parking at the base of the trail. So, we booked two tickets for one of the later shuttles as we wanted to sleep in this time.

Getting there

There is nothing like not having to wake up at 5 am during your holiday. So, we got up at 6 instead. After a relaxed breakfast we packed our backpacks and drove off. Shortly after passing the P1 parking in Tyssedal, there was a sign that said that the P2 parking was full. Oops. After explaining that we had a shuttle booked, they let us through, though, showing us where to park. The road to P2 Skjeggedal is narrow and it can be difficult to pass other vehicles. When we got to the parking, we managed to get a proper parking spot, which was lucky considering how crowded it was. We walked up to the shuttle and waited for our turn to ride. There were many people waiting to see if they can get on a shuttle as they hadn’t booked their tickets in advance. Some of them figured they’re better off walking up the road instead of hiking the trail – it is much easier to walk.

Not long after, we were on the shuttle driving up the steep, narrow road to the P3 Mågelitopp parking where our adventure was about to begin.

The easy walk and the hardest climb

So, there we were. Full of energy and feeling like winners since we saved ourselves nearly 4 kilometers of steep and difficult ascent. The first kilometer from here passes through a flat area which was very easy to walk. Hence, we got through it pretty quickly. However, at the end of the field I had to face my biggest fear. My old nemesis. Stairs. If we had taken the full trail, this would have been the second big climb, and I am so happy we skipped the first part. It took a lot of effort climbing the rocky staircase and once we got to the top, we sat down for a longer break. But that was it. The hard part was behind us.

The beautiful trail

From this point on, the trail follows a series of short climbs and descents. Because they are quite well balanced in terms of effort, for us the hike became much easier to enjoy. And it is worth taking the time to admire the views along the way. We crossed several streams, walked along small lakes, over boulders and around cliffs. And for most of the hike we had panoramic views of the surrounding mountains.

There are a couple of safety cabins along the way where you can peek inside. In our case, there were always other people before us with the same idea.

The trail took us along gorgeous landscapes, some looked as if they were from another planet. We were making good progress and soon enough we were closing up on our final destination.

Trolltunga

In the last few meters of the final ascent we could already see the large group of hikers queueing to take a picture at the famous landmark. Queueing took forever. Or at least an hour that felt like forever. But that’s what we get for hiking in the middle of the day. The smarter thing to do is get there very early, or later in the afternoon as by the time we were about to head back the queue had almost disappeared.

It’s important to befriend someone around you in that queue and make an arrangement to take pictures of each other. If you want to hang your legs from the edge of the rock, it’s not scary – there is a bit of slope that allows you to stay on the safe side. But most importantly, if there are a lot of people still waiting, don’t take your time and don’t take a million identical pictures.

Once we got a couple of photos, we walked a bit further just after the massive Trolltunga where there is a much smaller version of it. People didn’t seem to care about this rock so that’s where we took another bunch of photos, and they came out quite good. Just a few meters further down, we picked a rock near the edge of the cliff where we sat down to grab some food. Even though there were hundreds of people behind us, this place felt isolated, because it is a dead end and there’s not enough room for many people to hang out.

The way back

After our recharging lunch with a view, it was time to start hiking back. We had a long way ahead of us. Nevertheless, the trail is a bit easier on the way down, so we were making good progress, very fast. It wasn’t long before we got to the final section – my horror, the stairs. Our feet hurt from walking for so long over the rough terrain, and the stairs were also quite hard on our knees. Needless to say, finding a place to sit and take our shoes off at the shuttle pick up point felt like heaven.

We had a short drive back to our hotel in Odda (Trolltunga Hotel – a lovely place to stay). We finished the day with a nice dinner in the hotel garden and a couple of cold beers. Our hiking weekend in Norway was over and it’s been physically exhausting but mentally very relaxing.

Looking forward to visiting again.

Know before you go

There is a lot of information about the trail, what to pack and weather conditions here. Here are a few tips from us:

When to go – The beginning of June until end of September is when it is safe to go without a guide;
What to wear – The trail is completely exposed so bring layers and definitely bring a hat and sunscreen;
How long does it take – It depends, but there is a lot of ground to cover, and make sure you consider the queuing at the top. It took us about 8 hours out and back including an hour and a half waiting to take a picture, and all the rest and lunch stops;
What if I don’t have a car – There is plenty of transport to choose from. There are shuttles from Odda, and busses from Voss, Bergen, Stavanger and Oslo. Some options here;
Most importantly, enjoy the hike, and don’t go too near the edge of the cliff;
If you would like to learn about other great hikes in Norway, read our post about the Besseggen Ridge;

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Diving the Poor Knights

goframetheworld — Mon, 15 Jun 2020 17:51:31 +0000

Diving the Poor Knights

The Poor Knights Islands are rated as world class dive sites, most times classified in the top 10 best dive sites in the world. They are the remains of a group of ancient volcanoes. The ocean and time have turned these volcanoes into the beautiful maze of caves, tunnels and cliffs that they are today. The location is considered one of the most important offshore marine and nature reserves in New Zealand. Access is restricted to very limited groups – mostly scientific researchers and one diving center.

Start of the day

The day started early for us at around 6am. We had a very good night rest at the Quality Hotel Oceans Tutukaka and a gorgeous view greeted us when we pulled the curtains aside. A variety of warm colors had filled up the morning sky over the marina in this cool March morning. After we packed our bags, we went down to the hotel restaurant for a tasty fresh breakfast.

The dive center that we had booked our dives with (Dive Tutukaka), was not more than 200 meters from the hotel. We got there as instructed at 8 am. where we had to fill in and sign a few forms in regard to our diving skills and certification. The dive center was super busy – tens of divers and snorkelers were trying on gear. We had our own gear with us so we could just sit back and relax until it was time to set off. It was not long until we headed to the boat.

On board of Diversity

The skipper of the catamaran – Jack Terei, welcomed us and pointed us to the general briefing area. After a quick, casual lecture about the general safety, trip duration and lunch arrangements after, we departed. The weather was sunny and warm, and the ocean was calm. We could only feel the cool morning breeze – it was a perfect day to dive. As we had booked guided dives, it was time to meet with our instructor who briefed us in a couple of additional procedures. From that point it was a 30-minutes ride to the Poor Knights islands.

The catamaran was absolutely crowded with divers from all over the world and with different levels of experience. At some point during the ride, our guide gathered us along with the rest of our small sub group. We discussed the plan for the first dive, the marine life which we may encounter, the currents, and landscapes.

For the majority of the ride we were sitting on the upper deck next to the skipper. We were admiring the beautiful view while he was telling funny stories. A really nice guy.

Once we anchored among the islands, the crew started preparing the teams and our gear. This meant it was time to suit up. We quickly jumped into our wetsuits and geared up.

Diving Poor Knights – Fraggle Rock

The first out of two dives for the day was at a small reef right in the middle of the Poor Knights called Fraggle Rock. After a final buddy check we started entering the water. We had already done a few boat dives, but this one was a bit different as the boat was much bigger. Nevertheless, we entered the water with ease. I must say I expected the water to be colder, but it turned out to be quite warm and I felt very comfortable.

We submerged quickly, and luckily, we did not have issues with equalizing. We started exploring the area, following our guide among the kelp covering the bottom. The water was very calm and the visibility was great. Our dive was up to depths of around 16-17 meters, which is quite shallow. We encountered a couple of eels, snappers, groupers, scorpion fish and sea urchins. The sea urchins are not typical for this area and because of that they do not have any natural predators. Many of the creatures which can be seen there are just temporary visitors. Some, however, take up permanent residency. A survey published in 1982 found that a quarter of the fish species encountered at the Poor Knights were not common along the adjacent Northland coast. The water temperature there is normally a degree cooler than it is by the islands.

We were expecting to see rays which are also common for this location, but unfortunately, we were not that lucky. Instead we were followed by a colourful and inquisitive Sandagers wrasse. This is an ambassador for the Poor Knights and often follows divers around. It got even more curious when our instructor started knocking two rocks together.

The dive took us around 40 minutes. This, generally speaking, is not long for the 12l aluminium tanks we used. The skipper helped us get back on board the catamaran and get out of our gear.

Once everyone was back on board, it was time for a break. Warm beverages and healthy snacks helped us recover our strength. The dive center offers to pack lunch on demand, but we had prepared our own so there was no need to order one.

Diving Poor Knights – MaoMao Arch Cave

During our break, the skipper took us to our next diving location – the Blue MaoMao Arch. Blue MaoMao Arch is the main attraction of the Poor Knights Islands. It is actually the main reason why Jacques Cousteau ranked the islands number 7 in his Top 10! You can enter the shallow arch (7-8m deep) from both sides. One goes underneath a huge boulder, the other is through a big staircase made of rocks.

The current at this location was quite strong and we had no previous experience with such conditions. То be honest, this made me a little bit anxious. The guide and the skipper briefed us on the routine that we needed to go through in order to reach the entry point of the dive location. Meaning that we simply had to swim in a different direction, and the current would take care of the rest.

We got into the water holding on to a rope to avoid being dragged by the current. Once every member of our group was in the water, we headed to the entry point where we started the descent. The beginning of the dive, as was the majority of the dive, was fairly shallow – around 6-7 meters. We went along the outside of the cave’s wall to reach the entrance. From there we were facing stunningly beautiful views. The direct light at that time of the day was peeking through holes at the top of the cave and was casting beautiful underwater shadows.

After we got to the deepest point of our dive, around 16-17meters, we started ascending to more shallow waters. We could see the group of divers who went in before us, as well as some snorkelers that entered the cave from the opposite side. Large groups of mao mao fish were swimming uninterruptedly above our heads. The beautifully cast light was painting amazing pictures. Everything was so quiet. The blue calmness surrounding us made us feel free of all negativity and all my anxiety disappeared. It was absolute pleasure!

Once we got outside of the cave, we were once again met by the strong current. We had to kick hard to escape its pull. As we had some air left, the guide decided to show us around the shallow area. This turned out to be great idea as we encountered a few big snappers in the distance and a couple of rays.

Once we reached 40psi, we started ascending and we got safely back to the catamaran. By the time we unloaded our gear and got some hot beverages, everyone else had gotten on board as well. The skipper started the engine and told us we are in for a surprise. Wow, what surprise could have that been?

Exploring Rico Rico cave

The catamaran took off slowly, circling around those big cliffs and heading to a different part of the islands. Suddenly, we spotted a small cave entrance at the sea level. It turned out it was not that small, as the catamaran went straight into the cave. This was the famous Rico Rico cave.

The Rico Rico Cave is the largest known sea cave in the world. The skipper told us a very interesting story. Visiting the cave was serving as a mana regeneration ritual for the old Maori people, when they were about to go into a battle. The acoustics inside the cave created some awesome effects. One can experience a short imaginary trip through the ages in there.

Another cool thing about the cave is the way the light bounces off the water upon entry and then on to the walls. Because of this, the vegetation that is on the ceiling and walls grows upside down.

After we took some pictures inside the cave, it was time to head back to the Tutukaka marina.

Overview

Overall diving Poor Knight has exceeded all our expectations. We are willing to believe Jacques Cousteau, when he rated the area as one of the top ten dives in the world!

Things to consider:

The dive center can get very busy and personal attention may not be possible all the time
The dive center is very big and offers a great variety of gear for all sizes and tastes
You can order lunch for the day trip from the diving center. It should be requested in advance
Depending on the season, water can get a bit cooler. So mind your protection system and thickness. Check out our gear for reference.
Currents can be quite strong, as it was on our second dive

Enjoy diving the Poor Knights!

The post Diving the Poor Knights appeared first on Travel | Photography | Blog | Go Frame The World.

One day to discover Osaka

goframetheworld — Fri, 03 Apr 2020 14:46:00 +0000

One day to discover Osaka

When in Japan for the first time, Osaka is a must-make-time-to-visit sort of place. At least that is what the general opinion seems to be according to the internet. Only having experienced a fraction of the wonders Japan has to offer, I will refrain from expressing an opinion.

Our first visit to Japan did have a day allocated to discovering Osaka. Having read plenty of travel blogs I completely understand why most of them wisely advise to take your time exploring a place. Unfortunately, this is usually only possible if you are not limited by statutory annual leave. Because of this, we end up having to prioritize and plan in a way that we can efficiently see as much as time allowed us. So, we picked the best things to do and see in Osaka put them in an ambitious one-day itinerary.

Osaka Castle

That morning we got an early start. We hoped to have a look inside the Osaka castle when the crowds are not too thick. We managed to get there just around the time it got opened. Unfortunately, plenty of other people had the same idea so the queue was growing pretty fast. If that is the least busy time to visit, I don’t want to know what the busiest hours are like.

We were only going to spend one day in Osaka and we didn’t want to carry our suitcases around. Therefore, we decided to spend this day between the two days we had planned in Kyoto. The train we got on from Kyoto took about an hour to Osaka from where we had to take the metro to the Osaka castle.

The inside of the castle is reconstructed and turned into a museum with many historical artifacts on display. An observation deck provides a panoramic view of Osaka. For an additional fee there you can get photographed wearing a helmet and surcoat or a kosode kimono. Unable to resist, we had our pictures taken as samurai. Although one of us being a girl provoked some weird looks among the crowd.

After the visit to the castle we went for a stroll in the surrounding park to enjoy the cherry blossoms and the taste of strawberry daifuku.

Shitenno-ji

Our next stop on the list was the Shitenno-ji temple. It is one of the oldest temples in Japan. Despite burning down several times, it was always reconstructed to reflect the original design. The temple courtyard is free to access, but there is a fee if you wish to enter some of the buildings.

Even just walking around the courtyard was a nice experience. There were almost no other people around which allowed us to really enjoy the beautiful traditional architecture. Walking around the temple and climbing to the top of a small pagoda where we managed to accidently disturb a guy’s meditation was fun.

Shinsekai

After the peaceful stroll around the temple, it was time to head to a livelier area – the famous Shinsekai. It is quite close to the Shitenno-ji temple. We took advantage of a slightly longer route through the Tennoji park – a great cherry blossom spot.

Shinsekai is a district full of shops and eateries – perfect timing as we were ready for lunch, so we just randomly picked a place to try out some traditional kushikatsu. Who doesn’t like deep fried food?

The Tsutenkaku Tower looks over the area as a symbolic monument of the district, designed to resemble the Eiffel Tower in Paris. Shinsekai has the reputation of a relatively dangerous district due to the population of homeless people in the area, though compared to Europe, and possibly the rest of the world, Japan’s safety standards are rather high.

The Kuromon Market was another lunch option, though it can get rather crowded. It is a covered market that dates from the Edo period and contains shops that sell meat, traditional sweets, clothes, and all sorts of other stuff. Shinsekai is also a busy area where you can buy all sorts of things and eat all sorts of food. It is difficult to choose when the restaurants have a bunch of creative 3D signs mounted on the exterior walls to advertise them.

There are statues of the local mascot, called Billiken all over Shinsekai and rubbing his feet supposedly brings good luck. We did not know that at the time, so we missed our opportunity.

Arcade Game Center

After lunch we headed back towards the Umeda station. We had decided to watch the sunset from the rooftop of Umeda Sky Building so we had some time to kill. We found a game center near Umeda train station within a walking distance from our next stop and gave it a nostalgic go at the selection of arcade games.

Umeda Sky Building

The Umeda Sky building itself is quite the view. The main reason why it is so popular is that it has a doughnut shaped observatory at about 170 meters height providing a 360-degree view of Osaka and is famous for being a great spot to enjoy the sunset.

Getting there about an hour early turned out to be essential for securing a good spot though. We spent about over an hour enjoying the view while lending our good spot from time to time to people who were too late so that they could also take a few photos of the red horizon.

Shinsaibashi

On our way to the entertainment district we walked through the Shinsaibashi shopping street. It is nearly 600 meters of commercial avenue featuring all kinds of stores – from expensive boutique stores to 100-yen shops. Our goal was not to do any shopping although we entered a few stores to look for souvenirs, but it’s definitely worth spending a day shopping in that area.

Dotonbori

After sunset is the best time to visit the heart of Osaka – the Dotonbori area and the Shinsaibashi street lead us right to the Ebisu bridge with the famous sign of the Glico running man iconic for this district.

This area is probably the most famous tourist destination in the city renowned for its colourful neon lights and variety of bars and restaurants.

It is a very crowded area and it wasn’t easy to find a place to have dinner even though the options are countless.

The bottom line

Dotonbori was the last stop for our day in Osaka, and it was a good one. It was time for us to get on the fast train back to our Hotel in Kyoto which took about 40 minutes.

Osaka offers tons of things to see and do if you have the time. However, mark my words – the city’s food culture can quickly empty your pockets if you’re not too careful.

We are not the city loving kind of tourists, but even with its crowds and queues, Osaka left its mark in our memories with the encouragement for us to come back.

Useful links

Japan Rail Pass – Though it might seem a bit pricey, if you are travelling around Japan, a J rail pass will save you money and time.

Japan Travel – The Japan National Tourism organization website provides a great deal of information about Japan

If you enjoyed this itinerary, have a look at some others that we tried and recommend here.

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