The Achada do Teixeira to Pico Ruivo hike is by far one of my favourites in Madeira. It is short, easy and incredibly rewarding. The trail takes you all the way to the highest peak on the island – Pico Ruivo where you get to enjoy a 360-degree view of the surrounding landscapes.
We actually attempted this hike twice. The first time around, the weather was bad, and we ended up turning back just before the final ascent. The second time, we had great conditions as the Achada do Teixeira parking was just above the cloud cover.
A few details about the trail
- Hike distance – 2.8 km one way
- Incline – about 280 meters
- Duration – 2.5 – 3 hours out and back
- Difficulty – I’d say moderate as the last 500 meters are a bit steep
A rookie mistake
It would have probably been wise to check the weather before we took off from Funchal. It would have saved us a few hours of driving and hiking in the rain. Regardless, I do not regret making the trip. It was just us on the trail, it wasn’t raining heavily, and we were surrounded by nothing but mist, and the smell of mountain flowers.
When we took off from Funchal, the weather seemed good. Our plan was to reach Pico Ruivo by sunset and hike back in the dark. Upon reaching Santana, however, we noticed that the mountains were covered in thick clouds. Nevertheless, we thought there was still a chance that the peaks would be above the clouds, so we kept going. Eventually, we arrived at the parking lot where the Achada do Teixeria to Pico Ruivo hike starts. It was disappointing. We were still in the clouds, and it was raining heavily. We were also the only car at the parking. That should have been another hint. After we debated for a few minutes while also hoping for the rain to stop, we got out of the car, grabbed our gear, and headed up the path.
The way up to Pico Ruivo
The rain was not as bad anymore, but the wind was getting stronger in the more exposed sections of the trail. While some of us already knew we were not going to get the sunset photos we wanted, I was hopeful that there’d be light at the end of this eerie path.
It wasn’t long until we got to the first shelter where we evaluated how soaking wet our clothes were and briefly discussed how foolish it was of us, two seasoned hikers, to leave our raincoats back at the apartment. Against our better judgement, we kept going.
The path soon cut through the right side of the mountain where we felt sheltered from the wind. I was starting to enjoy the scenery. There was a strong smell of pine and flowers, and the only thing disrupting the silence was the steady patter of the rain and the songs of the local birds. Eventually we reached another shelter with a big wooden table placed in front of it. We thought it would make a lovely place to have lunch and enjoy the view which was currently just fog.
The last section we pushed through before we admitted that there was no point of going further was the windy ridge. In this area there is a forest of dry trees on the slope to the left. With the thick fog, the landscape looked ghostly and, in a creepy way, magical. We got to a small rock wall with stairs leading through it that looked like a gateway into the unknown. It was at this point that we turned around and headed back to our car.
The second try
We were much luckier with the weather the second time around. Once again, we planned to get to Pico Ruivo on time to watch the sunset, and once again as we drove through Santana, we could see the cloud covering the mountain. As we kept driving up the steep road, we were keeping our fingers crossed that we wouldn’t have the same bad luck as this was our last chance to do the famous Achada do Teixeira do Pico Ruivo hike. It was literally the last couple of twists of the road where we emerged from the cloud into a sunny, and crowded parking. We had 2 hours until sunset so without wasting any time, we checked that we had everything packed, including the raincoats we should have brought last time, and began our hike.
The same way up and a different experience
We recognized the path, but not the views. They were stunning. It was like walking on a hill in the middle of a sea of clouds. Probably the closest we will ever get to visiting another planet. We couldn’t help ourselves stopping every few meters to take pictures.
It was not long until the parking lot was out of sight behind us and views to Pico Areeiro came into view. We passed by the shelter with the table in front and we confirmed that it would have indeed made a very scenic lunch spot.
Further up the trail, we passed the third shelter and after that came the dry tree forest area. It was so much different from last time. The white trees lit up by the golden light of the setting sun backdropped by Pico do Arieiro peeking out of the clouds were far from the ghostly sight we saw a few days ago.
A bit further up and we were at the Pico Ruivo shelter. There are 3 other trails crossing at this point that lead to other parts of the island. PR1 – Pico do Areeiro footpath, PR 1.3 – Encumeada which goes along the central mountain range, and PR 1.1 – Ilha trail, which descends towards Ilha.
Up until now the parth had been pretty easy with a very steady incline. But here was where it got a little bit challenging. Thankfully it was just for the last 500 meters that we had to conquer a lot of stairs. But the reward at the top was definitely worth the effort.
Sunset at Pico Ruivo
The views from the top are truly incredible. You get the feeling you are on the top of the world. The viewpoints were quite busy with people who had already marked their viewing spots with tripods, backpacks and jackets. Needless to say, the best spots were already taken. We took the opportunity to walk around and explore different angles, have a snack, fly the drone, and speak to local photographers.
And then we watched the sun set. It was breathtaking. There were a few minutes of silence while everyone just enjoyed the view. Then the silence was broken by the shouts of a group of young people cheering their friends who had just gotten engaged.
Way down we go
People slowly started to leave as it got cold and windy. Some of the photographers stayed hoping for a clear sky to do some astrophotography. Even though we came prepared with layers and layers of clothes, we decided it was too cold to stay any longer and we headed back.
We walked as fast as we could towards the lower parts of the trail which were more sheltered from the wind. As we rushed down, we overtook pretty much everyone else who was at the top and left before we did. Some stayed at the hut below Pico Ruivo, but most were on the path back to the Achada do Teixeira parking. I think it took us less than an hour to get back to our car. Tired, but happy we drove back to Funchal.
Know before you go
A few recommendations:
- When to go – Whenever you can! There is rarely any snow in Madeira, but do keep an eye on the weather forecast and the webcams
- How long does it take – It took us just over an hour to get to the top and less to get back. Overall it is safe to assume a 3-hour round trip with a few short stops, but you could spend longer at the top
- What else can you do in the area – Well, from Pico Ruivo you could hike to Pico Arieiro, however you’d need someone to pick you up from the other side. Encumeada is another alternative for which you’d need to be very well prepared as it is a difficult 11 km long trail
- More about hiking awesome locations can be found on our blog 🙂
