Kayaking around Whale Island

Kayaking around Whale Island

Whakatāne, New Zealand

Whakatāne is a little gem in New Zealand that offers a surprising number of activities and sights. Back when we were doing our research, the only reason why we planned to stop by was to visit White Island. There is much more to Whakatāne than that – coastal walks, diving, snorkeling, scenic trips, culture and heritage attractions are all great alternatives. The one adventure that definitely got our “SEAL” of approval was kayaking around Whale Island – a wildlife sanctuary, home of a fur seal colony and many native birds.

How we ended up kayaking in Whakatāne

Our trip to New Zealand was one I had been looking forward to for a very long time. I had planned the trip months in advance and kept adding more stuff to do in our already very full itinerary. It took a very long time to assemble and arrange all activities in just two weeks. I planned for failure as much as I could as well, leaving space for bad weather, car troubles and other things that could go wrong. We noted down Plan B’s in the itinerary and chose alternative activities. Sadly, there is only so much you can plan for.

Whakatāne was on day 5 of our road trip schedule. The idea was to take a tour to White Island – an active volcano some 48 kilometers off the East Coast of New Zealand’s North Island. The tour would have taken us on a catamaran to the island where we’d have walked around inside the crater. That sounded like a really exciting adventure. Little that I knew, planning in advance would stab me in the back like I never imagined. On 9th December 2019, less than two months before our trip, a large eruption occurred at White Island followed by a second eruption shortly after. It was a tragic event as there were 47 people on the island at the time.

Following these events, all tours to White Island were cancelled. We had a few alternatives in the area, or we could still rearrange our schedule a bit and spend more time in Rotorua instead. After digging a bit, I found out that there are plenty of other things Whakatāne has to offer. One of them was kayaking around Whale island – a small uninhabited island 9 kilometers away from the town which was home to a colony of fur seals… I did not read beyond β€œfur seals” – that was all it took to win me over.

The Lady on the rock

Arriving in Whakatāne

We arrived late in the afternoon, tired from that day’s road trip. The town was very quiet, and most of the shops were already closed. I was expecting this area to be busy, but it seemed like all the tourists had already left. Not that I mind a little peace and quiet.

With my feet sore from all the walking and hiking, I was looking forward to a day where my arms would be doing most the work for a change.

We got some takeaway and grabbed some fruit and refreshments from a supermarket – probably the only one that was open. After a relaxed dinner on our porch, it was time for some well-deserved sleep.

The trip to Whale Island

Early the next morning, it was once again time to pack the suitcases and check out of the hotel. The air was cool, but the sky was clear and there was just a bit of breeze that moved the air. We were lucky to have a good weather and enough people signing up for the trip for it to even happen.

Whakatane marina

We drove to the marina where the crew were already loading the kayaks on a catamaran. After brief introductions, we tried on some gear, went through a bio check and headed to the boat. Shortly after we took off around the lady on the rock and towards Whale Island. The lady on the rock is a bronze statue known as the symbol of the Whakatāne region.

Whakatane marina passage

The ocean was calm, and we enjoyed the smooth sail towards the island looking like a giant green whale. Our guide Helen was telling us about the region and the history of the island while we were looking out for dolphins on the way. With our approach, Whale Island was getting bigger and bigger, and we could now make out its trees, and rocks. White Island was also visible on the hazy horizon with its smoking crater.

Whale island peeking over Whakatane marina

Time to get into the kayaks

The beginning of the kayaking tour

As the boat anchored on the right side of the island, we were already in our gear, and ready to jump in the kayaks. Once everyone was in the water, we followed our guide along the coast further to the right. There we saw a few fur seals with their little ones relaxing on the rocks. A few of them jumped in the water and swam closer, while others just observed us from a distance without any interest.

A curious seal approaching

We continued rowing towards the edge of the island where we could feel the current getting stronger. As we got around, we saw a completely different face of the island. It was no longer the calm, thick forest before us, but rough vertical cliffs and rocks carved in odd shapes by the incoming waves.

Arches formed by the incoming waves

Sulphur Bay

The group turned around to kayak along the front of the island as it was not exposed to the strong currents. We headed towards our next stop – Sulphur Bay. We took our time as we wanted to enjoy the beautiful scenery around us. It was quiet and calm – we could only hear the birds which Helen kindly identified for us along the way. Whale island is a nature reserve and a sanctuary for endangered birds. It is a pest free environment where birds can thrive.

Once we reached Sulphur Bay, we got out of the water and pulled our kayaks out on the beach. There we were able to observe the geothermal activity of the island. Hot water was raising through the sand in the shallows. We could see little bubbles making their way to the surface. We buried our feet in the hot sand for a while and then went on a short tour of the surrounding area.

Sulphur Bay

On the way back we stumbled upon some kiwi footprints. Turns out kiwis are bigger than I thought!

Kiwi footprints

The dogs of the sea

After the pleasant break, we hopped back into the kayaks and headed out to see the rest of the island’s coast. On the way there were plenty of native birds and plants to see. Our guide was explaining the history of the island, the landmarks that were of importance or considered sacred by the Maori.

Native birds and trees seen around the coat of Whale Island
One of the Maori cultural and historic sites

As we reached the end of the sheltered side of the island and we were about to head back, we noticed a small cave. In front of the cave, there were a few fur seals relaxing on the rocks. We approached a bit to take a few pictures while maintaining a safe distance so that we don’t startle them. The seals, however, decided they were interested in us, so they jumped in the water and came to see us up close. They were playing very close to our kayaks, so we managed to snap some good footage. They got curious about us once they realized we were not a threat and started jumping out of the water and swimming in circles very close to us.

Fur seals approaching our kayaks

Best. Day. Ever!

Fur seals playing in the water around us
More fur seals
A dog of the sea

The way back

Seals are the best!

We spent quite some time around the seals, but it was time to return to the boat. The playful animals followed us for a while and then disappeared. We got the kayaks back on board after which some of us got in the water for a refreshing swim.

The way back to Whakatane

Our skipper then set sails for Whakatāne, even though there wasn’t much wind to go with. With a cup of hot coffee and some of Helen’s homemade brownies, we sat in the front to work a bit on our tan. It was a very smooth and relaxing journey back.

Sailing back to the marina

Once we were back at the marina, we got in our car and set off towards our next adventure.

The takeaway

This was a day well spent. I highly recommend KGKayaks for this trip. I want to add a special thanks to our guide Helen and our skipper Barry for the pleasant and educational experience.

If you enjoyed this post and if you are looking for ideas for your New Zealand holiday, diving the Poor Knights is another adventure in New Zealand we highly recommend.

79 thoughts on “Kayaking around Whale Island”

  1. Gorgeous shots! I love New Zealand but never got to Whale Island. Love the fur seals though. I went swimming with them and some wild dolphins when I was down there.

    1. goframetheworld

      Hi Nina, swimming with the seals and dolphins must have been amazing πŸ™‚ I would love to do that as well

    1. goframetheworld

      Hi Sophia, I am happy this inspires you to visit, I am sure you won’t regret the long flights πŸ™‚

    1. goframetheworld

      Hi Keena, I am sure you’ll love kayaking especially if it’s in a place like Whale Island πŸ™‚

  2. The kayaking looks like so much fun. I’ve only ever been once or twice, but interested in trying it again, especially in a place with as many cute and playful seals as you seem to have seen.

    1. goframetheworld

      Hi Emma, there are surely many interesting places to get back to kayaking in New Zealand, I am sure you won’t regret it πŸ™‚

  3. This trip looks awesome! I love how you got to see the Fur seals when you were on your kayaks. I’ve visited New Zealand but didn’t get to try this – now I have an excuse to return!

    1. goframetheworld

      Thanks, Rachel! I already have another list of things to do and see when I go back, and I just hope I can go back soon πŸ™‚

  4. Erin from Pina Travels

    New Zealand is high on my bucket list! Thanks for this detailed guide. Kayaking around Whale Island seems like an awesome way to spend a day in that region. It’s so beautiful! Pinning this for when I can finally visit NZ.

  5. This sounds like a perfect day- I love fur seals!!! I’ve worked with marine mammals and it’s my life’s work to see all of them in the wild!

    1. goframetheworld

      That sounds like a dream job to me! They were amazing, I hope you get to achieve your goal πŸ™‚

    1. goframetheworld

      I know, the problem with New Zealand is that it is so far away! My advice is to make sure you spend as much time as you can there as there is too much to do and see.

  6. What a great day it must’ve been. The way you described it made me feel like I was there too. The fur seals are just so adorable in the water. I hope I can see them too one day.

    1. goframetheworld

      Hi Kitti, it was a great day indeed – relaxing, exciting and educational. I hope you can visit and see the seals as well πŸ™‚

  7. We haven’t visited New Zealand yet but when we do, I would love to include activities such as kayaking around Whale Island on our itinerary – sounds like such an unforgettable experience. It’s great that besides exploring the surroundings and seeing the wildlife, you also were able to learn about the history of the island from the guide.

  8. Great post. Whakatane is truly gem, I would love to see fur seals while on kayaking too. This is an epic adventure, wish to visit one day. Thanks for sharing.

  9. You have me thinking I need to make another trip to New Zealand! This adventure – including the paddle with “dogs of the sea” – looks like something I’d love to experience. Thx for sharing!

    1. goframetheworld

      Thanks, Megan! I am happy that this inspired you to go back to New Zealand. I, for one, did not get enough of that place πŸ™‚

    1. goframetheworld

      Thanks, Jamie! There are many great places to kayak in New Zealand. If you get the chance to visit, I recommend you don’t miss out on kayaking Whale Island and Mine Bay (lake Taupo) πŸ™‚

  10. i was literally JUSTTTT looking at New Zealand because I found out it’s one of the few countries I can travel to and come back home from without needing to observe a quarantine. Definitely taking this as a sign!

  11. I’m the same – you absolutely had me at “fur seals”. And it totally looked worth it. They seem so playful and inquisitive, it must’ve been an amazing seeing them up so close. It’s unfortunate you were unable to go to White Island, but sounds like a fantastic alternative.

    1. goframetheworld

      Hi Ally, it was a lot of fun indeed! Such a nice and relaxing activity, I hope you can try it out yourself πŸ™‚

    1. goframetheworld

      Hi Ashlee, the seals were awesome! Another place to see a fur seal colony is Kaikōura in South Island.

  12. Those seals are too cute!! I am so jealous, I am dying to visit NZ, mostly for the mountains, beaches and volcanos. I didn’t even consider yet the wildlife and islands there, but all the more reason to visit asap.

    1. goframetheworld

      Hi Jaqueline! Before I went there, I hadn’t considered the wildlife either as I put all of my planning effort into hikes and dives. It is amazing to see kiwis, penguins and seals, not to mention all those other native birds as well.

    1. goframetheworld

      The eruption was scary because it was unexpected. Nobody saw it coming apparently. But I am happy we did not cancel our trip to Whakatane as it ended up being an amazing day πŸ™‚

  13. Ugh NZ is definitely on my list! Thanks for introducing me to whale island, had no clue but I’m SO looking forward to it, it’s gorgeous!

  14. Wow, what an amazing experience to be so close to the fur seals! New Zealand is such a wonderful place to connect with nature. I look forward to when I can return to NZ and try this – I too packed so many things into my trip it was so hard to decide what to do.

    1. goframetheworld

      Hi Susanna, New Zealand offers too much to see and do, and we rarely have the time, that’s the problem. Another place to see the fur seals up close is Kaikōura in South Island. Plenty of diving options there as well, although there are also great whites in these waters so maybe it’s a bit safer in the kayak πŸ™‚

  15. Firstly, I am soooo impressed with your superstar planning! I was similar when I planned our trip to NZ, but I didn’t build in quite so many extras just in case our original plans failed…I am in awe. πŸ˜€

    Then, this may not have been your original plan, but it worked out amazingly and you got to see a stunning side of Kiwiland that most tourists miss out on. I LOVE the scenery, the paddling and the seals! I am sure we’ll have to go back to NZ at some point (I loved it so, so much!) I hope I can find cool, more off the beaten paths spots like this next time.

    The White Island tragedy was awful. I am glad you avoided that… but it’s scary isn’t it. It is totally the kind of adventure I would have wanted to book!

    1. goframetheworld

      Thanks, Josy! I am a bit obsessed with over planning indeed πŸ˜€ I believe that the first time you visit a country, you should always do the most touristy stuff, but once that’s out of the way you should definitely start exploring off the beaten paths places. More often than not, they turn out to be the much better experience. A lot of the famous places are only so famous because they are marketed very well in my opinion. In New Zealand’s case, I don’t think anything is overrated, though, and all paths lead to some beautiful place πŸ™‚

  16. I miss New Zealand so much! I would love to kayak whale island next time. All of the seals are so cool!

    1. goframetheworld

      I already miss it as well and I look forward to going back and say hi to the seals once again πŸ™‚

    1. goframetheworld

      Hi Sarah! Thanks! Kayaking is great fun, and not a physically demanding sport. I highly recommend it πŸ™‚

  17. I’d love to go to New Zealand someday–there are so many places I’d like to explore + so much I’d like to do (kayaking is definitely one of em’)! It sounds like an awesome day there!

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